Tuesday, 17 September 2013

Step-by-Step The Smoky Eye

The smoky eye this season has taken a turn for the punk! Diane Kruger, Kate Bosworth and Nina Dobrev are just a few of the celebrities rocking this new makeup trend which has taken the traditional smoky eye look and added in a metallic twist. It is a great new way to spice up the smoky, which has become a makeup staple.

You want to start your smoky eye with a fresh face. Moisturizer and Foundation already on, eyebrows already sculpted and filled in, plus concealer perfectly masking your dark under-eye circles.

As you are blending so many colours with this new smoky metallic eye you really need to start with a base crème that retains the colour, and also assists with the blending. You want to cover your eyelid and crease with the crème.

The first colour you want to apply should be your base colour. I find a colour one shade darker than your skin tone really warms the eye and gives a good offset for the more lavish colours you will be using. You want to use this colour over your lid.

The next colour should be a cream shadow. (I personally use a chubby eye pencil in Black Gold from Laura Mercier.) You want to apply this in blotches across the lash lines both above and below the eye. Then taking a blending brush you want to smudge it across the eyelid blending it with the base colour.

Using your darkest shadow now, you want to sweep it across your crease creating a distinct line from the eyelid to the eye crease. Using a flat brush allows the powder to get right into the crease, and especially when applied in a windscreen wiper fashion!

Taking a very light shadow, or your highlighting powder you want to highlight just below your brow. This helps to not overwhelm the eye area – it adds a splash of lightness and stops the look from becoming too gothic. Make sure to sweep the brush up towards the brow as you do not want speckles of light shadow to touch your dark smoky colours!

It is this step that takes the smoky eye to its next level. Taking your choice of metallic shadow you want to coat a flat brush and dab it across your eye. It should be thick enough to sparkle, but not too thick that you cannot see the blacker, defined shadows below. Once you have covered your eye in the metallic colour you will want to take a blending brush and bend the metallic across the lid and into the crease, and the same on your bottom lid, smoothing it up to the water line.

Now to define the glitter even more you will want to redo your dark crease shadow over top of the metallic. This will really help set up the metallic, and catch the pigments.

To finish you want to add a liquid black eyeliner – this new look is best finished off with a thin cat eye liner, too wide and it becomes overpowering. The black needs to sit right on your upper lash line, and on the lower water line.

Finally adding mascara, (perhaps some fake lashes), a quick touch-up of concealer and you are done!

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